On that basis, they didn’t actually lock everything away, thinking that padlocks would have the reverse effect of attracting thieves. Unfortunately, it may be the last time you see it. We weren’t sure if all the scare stories were true or had grown with the telling. ….except Stuart who had a haircut instead while we went inside Casa Azul…. we are thrilled and strangely grateful to the thieves that they kindly left it behind for us. We visited the fort of San Juan de Ulúa where Cortes landed in 1519 and there started the Spanish conquest of Mexico. ..was from a woodpecker pecking a cactus for grubs. We ended up spending four days there, making new friends…. It turned out that our stop at Don Alberto’s coincided with a photoshoot for Lukas Avendano, Zapotec transgender muxe performance artist and, for the purposes of the shoot, a mezcalero hard at work turning the mill wheel to pulp the roasted agave. Mexico's New Snack Craze 'Dorilocos,' Not For the Faint of Heart. After leaving the girls at the airport for their flight back to London, work and normal life, we took the coach to Veracruz to start our Mexico/USA road trip…. Oh yes, the perfect audience to offload our tale of woe. I’m not going to list them all but here’s a sample. This offer is only good on Monday's. If our breakfast, lunch or dinner isn’t actually wrapped in one, then chances are the meal comes accompanied by freshly made ones, stacked in a basket and kept warm in a tea towel. We also met a convoy of Canadians – three motorhomes travelling together – and they told us very reassuring tales about the skills of Mexican mechanics. Then it was time to leave – a slow departure as it turned out as we had timed it just as all the local ranchers arrived in procession, beers in hand, to celebrate the rodeo. He reconditioned the fuel injectors, provided new glow plug and praise be, that sorted the problem. …and bought mole sauce, new spanners and a replacement radio for the van. That was the end of the American Smelting and Mining Company in Angangueo as the accident led to the nationalization of the mines. And we couldn’t go without Molly. I kept my eyes shut. These flatbreads made from corn are a staple in the Mexican diet and have been since Mayan and Aztec times. You can find them on Glutto right here. But first, a quick stop in the small town of Dolores Hidalgo. Though only 95km away, it was a long slow climb over the mountains to get to San Cristobal de la Casas. The route across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec also took us through the windiest part of Mexico and past what is apparently the biggest wind farm in Latin America. and the friendly security guard said we could stay overnight in the car park so long as we had left next morning by 7 am. It was a good place to restock the van after the robbery. They're related to another, older bagged chip snack called Tostilocos, a similar concoction made with Tostitos, as the name implies. It is typically made with eggs, flour, milk, sugar, vanilla and cinnamon then topped with powdered sugar and/or fruits. And next door to La Jongle, the nature reserve at Nanciyaga provided an opportunity for an unexpected beauty treatment. Here we all are…. We had a swim…. The campsite was a good base for day tripping. Nice to feel we are not alone. And then Jose tempted us with a further reason to linger on in Ocosingo – there was a chario or rodeo on that afternoon. We spent four days at the campsite in San Cristobal de las Casas. Where to Eat Dorilocos in NYC. Dorilocos have been around for at least 15 years. I confess I had not heard of the word muxe before (pronounced moo-shay). Both of us donned the high vis jackets provided courtesy of the London 2012 Olympics. It is appropriately named because it is set within rainforest overlooking Lake Catemaco and we slept or at least tried to sleep to a soundtrack of macaws and howler monkeys. First thing in the morning, we went on the morning tour at Casa Sauza. You left us at the last blog post licking our wounds on a campsite just outside Veracruz. Dorilocos Meme. I posted it minutes after Stuart disappeared off in the car with our shipping agent Luiz, leaving me sitting in the office somewhere in the Veracruz city outskirts to wait for their return. Then there was the quilt and sleeping bag we bought for our first big van trip. Why not? ‘Si, si’, he assured us. The workers scarcely glanced up at us as they focussed on stripping out the stalks from the tobacco leaves in one section…. When the two Customs officers finally arrived for the inspection, Stuart had already had two hours of sorting through our things and bit by bit was realising what had been taken. And we still had no van as it was going to take another two or three days for the paperwork to be processed. The local estate agent is a branch of Sotheby’s and the shops reflect the affluent clientele. Well, if you’ve come in search of deals, you’ve come to the right spot. Except my shoes….they left behind a pair of orange sandals from Zara. It didn’t work out that way. Pilgrims, pilgrims and still more pilgrims….we passed hundreds of them walking along the highway as we drove north from Oaxaca. The word is said to be derived from mujer, the Spanish word for woman, and is a third gender specific to the Zapotec indigenous people in the Oaxaca region. All designs by daughter Elki. Stuart sampled the deep fried crickets from a stall there – delicious with with lime and chilli sauce apparently. …..before she set off to complete her cycle from Cancun to Oaxaca. Once parked up, Stuart decided to stay in the car park and do manly things…like tinker with the van engine…. …and crispy plantain which were delicious. We should come along for a bit before setting off on our travels again. The first person we met when we arrived at the campsite there was Michelle, a cyclist from Dublin. And we discovered just how small the traveller world is in Mexico….we knew of her before she introduced herself. These waterways were used as flower and vegetable gardens by the Aztecs. It was Stuart who spotted the smoke coming from inside the van, billowing out from the glove compartment right in front of me. At Ocasingo, Jose had already showed us the snaps he had taken with Michelle. Local artist Antonio Fuentes showed me around his exhibition of paintings influenced by the flora in the park. The carnival was on in the town and we went with Tim, Sarah, Leanne and Calvin to watch the firework show. And we had lecheros in the city’s Grand Cafe de Paroquia where the waiter first pours black coffee into to your glass then clinks it with a spoon to summon another waiter to pour out steaming hot milk from a height like so…. The drive up into the Sierra Gorda mountains was hard going – long slow steep climbs…. It seems it’s a two-day job to fix as it involves removing the dashboard. It’s a long walk through the woods to get to the place to see them. And we met Melisa and Derrin from Vermont…. A medida que continuamos monitoreando la propagación de COVID-19 (coronavirus), queríamos compartir con ustedes los pasos que hemos tomado para ayudar a minimizar el impact... Dear valued customer,We appreciate the trust you have placed in us as your neighborhood family ice cream store. We stayed in an Airbnb in the Roma district which, on balance, was fine though not exactly as the wording promised. What does that mean? As I write, Molly is tucked in among enormous trucks and tractors on a ro ro ship sitting just outside the port of Veracruz. More fool us. Place eggs, milk, flour, vanilla extract and salt in a blender and blend until smooth. …and did some shopping. The first was manned a young girl, no more than eight years old, holding rope across the road to block our way and demanding nothing more from us than to buy some of her goodies. Before shipping the van, we were advised that we could store personal stuff on the van while it was in transit from Southampton to Veracruz but it was at our own risk, not insurable, and for safety, everything needed to be locked away and completely out of sight. …we joined the pilgrims and pointed our van north. So as the sun sets over San Cristobel de la Casas (cue final credits) …. We didn’t know and were very, very grateful that the spray of Damp Start got us going once again. We were offered a parking spot just outside their house to stay the night ……. …and, in the next section, handrolled them into shape. …and enjoying the wildlife and weirder sights along the canal banks. We parked up, conveniently close to an excellent taco stand where ….